DOHA THE Omani Souq is unique in Qatar as much for its ambiance as for offering things that cannot be found elsewhere like faga (truffles).
The small souq, located between the wholesale vegetable market and the fish market, is particularly popular with Qatari patrons, who tend to form the majority of visitors.
We visited the Souq to discover just what makes it so popular with patrons from Qatar and abroad, and spoke with a shop owner, a customer and even a souq employee who has worked there for over thirty years.
Abdullah Nassir al Ali al Maadhid has been in business in Qatar since the fifties. A spirited person for a man in his late seventies, he was keeping his stall at the Omani Souq when we met him. He said, “We sell tamr, or dates, coffee, cardamom, and many other things at my shop here. One of our most popular items is faga’ (truffles), which grow in the desert. The ones we are selling now are imported from Algeria. Indeed, much of our merchandise is imported from many countries, mostly from the GCC, including Oman, as well as Saudi Arabia and even India.” Abdullah talked about the history of the Omani Souq, explaining that “it was called the Souq Oman many years ago, in the seventies. Back in those days, this area would be where men from Oman, merchants, would come and sell merchandise they exported from their country.
These days, there are only two or three of these original merchants here.
“Now the small owners are mostly locals from Qatar, but also include others from many, mostly Arab, backgrounds as well as India. As for the patrons, they are mostly Qataris, but Iraqis, Egyptians, and people of many different backgrounds come to shop here.
“When I came here, over thirty years ago now, they had already renamed it, and at the time its new name was the Souq Majles al Ta’awon, or Gulf Cooperation Council Souq. Even at that point, there were many, many Omani merchants, but others hailed from Saudi Arabia, and other GCC countries.” Abdullah continued his recollections, saying “I came here on February 22, 1981. As you can see, my stall is at the beginning of the souq, as I was here before most of these other guys. Back then, this souq looked completely different, and few of the merchants and owners from those days remain here.
“We didn’t even have this structure here, or these stalls, which were built in 1985. For four years it was just a wide open area, and the merchants would set up as best they could. With no fixed place to rent, like a stall, you can imagine there were some logistical problems! But, it can still be considered an old souq. For 27 years, I’ve run this stall here, and believe it or not even the central market had not been inaugurated at that time!” Abdullah could be said to be one of the founders of the Omani Souq. “I went with several Omani merchants, and we prepared a document, which we submitted to the office of the Emir His Highness Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al Thani’s father and were provided this space. Now the people of Qatar know me, I’ve been here for decades. There was even an incident at some point when certain administrators of the Souq wanted us to leave this area, but, once again, we contacted HH the Emir, and, thanks to him, they brought us right back!” Abdullah contrasted the Omani Souq with other souqs, commenting that “the prices here are unbeatable, everything is cheap, and, thanks to the government, rent is inexpensive, and if it’s cheap to rent a stall, then the merchandise in turn will be priced competitively. No one fixes their prices at this souq, all the merchants know each other, and most of us have been here for many years. Then there is the faga’, which I challenge you to find anywhere else! Abdullah talked for some length about faga’, a local delicacy also said to have health benefits. He said “this is the only place in the country where you can find faga’. Actually, I am also involved in importing these truffles, from Algeria, and I sell them to other merchants here.
This is the tail end of the season for faga’, so it’s a good time to get a deal on it, and these days you can get it for a third or a quarter of its normal price. There are two varieties of faga’, zubeidi and ekhlasi. The former variety tends to be more expensive, and is white, as well as being the more delicate. Ekhlasi is darker, it can come in shades of grey or black, and it tends to have a longer shelf life.” Abdulhamid works at the Omani Souq, and has done so for thirty years or so. He discussed the Souq in detail, saying “we basically sell everything here from the Gulf region, from faga’ to toys, so you can think of this as the GCC Souq. Most of the shoppers here are from Qatar, some others are from the other Gulf countries, but all nationalities come here. You’ll find the lowest prices in the whole central market here, and a part of the reason is that the prices to rent a stall are the lowest in this souq. The souq is well organised and maintained, and is regularly inspected by officials from the municipality. One of the things we’re known for I think is selling faga’, during the season, which lasts for about five months. Actually these days it’s nearing the end of the season, which will last for no more than two more weeks, so there are some good prices on faga’. But while many people come especially for this faga’, we sell many other things, such as Arabic coffee, lemon, dates, certain kinds of plants, and a variety of herbs and spices including cardamom, which also attract a large number of customers.” Ali Munassar al Ghayathin was walking around, looking at the merchandise in the souq. Responding to a question about what he was seeking, he said “I’m here today looking for some faga’. Faga’ grows in the desert, when it rains, and it has a unique flavour and texture.
Unfortunately the season for faga’ is nearing its end, and you won’t find it anywhere by the end of this month, but I was able to purchase some today. While it is perhaps a bit expensive, costing QR200 for three, four kilograms of faga’, this is actually a good price, as when the season first starts its much more costly. In addition to this, this souq also has tamr, or dates, which I also sometimes buy here for a good price. There are many other things which I come here to buy, such as seeds, or young plants, they have everything here, and in a relatively small space. The prices here are really good too, and if you find the prices at one stall to be too high, you can always go to another one looking for a better deal!
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